|As far as the fourteenth century " The masterpieces of our dollmakers were known and in search. In Bavaria, in Munich, very near of Nurnberg, childrentoys Eldorado, these little emigrants of parisian fabrics were welcomed !
On 1571, Duchess of Bavaria gives birth to a little girl ; Madame Claude de France, duchess of Lorraine, who is a good friend of her, want to make a gift which could enjoy also the mother; and immediatly, she thinks to some very nice dolls of Paris, very well dressed, in accordance with the fashion and writes for that to F. Hottmann " She requests him to send dolls, not too height, for or sixt, the best dressed you can find for the little girl of Madame Duchess of Bavaria ".Before the little girl could enjoy with them, the mother will take pleasure to see the parisian fashion.
Here, it is evident that the gift is for the mother more well than the girl. For the XIVth to XVIIIth, it is often those gifts between fashionable princesses and " dames ", living in different countries.
|But it was so that directly, regularly and without the necessity to take a pretext of a birth, as here or a New Year's day present.
A doll, no for a little girl, but a nice and hight doll, was sent dressed in all her finery from Paris whom the fashion makes the code towards the less favoured cities but where every woman want to know the last code of the fashion."
In 1391, we find in the royal accounts, analysed by Mr L. de Laborde in the Glossary of his catalog " Emaux du Louvre ", the sum 459 livres 16 sols given to Robert de Varennes, embroiderer and manservant of the royal Majesty, " for dolls and housekeeping to the Royal queen of Great Britain. "And, of course, it was the same gift that we spoke up. But maybe, important perfecting, these dolls were probably exactly to the height of the Queen. So, after have seen the fashion on the doll, she could immediatly dressed herself with it. Another analog story in 1496 in the royal accounts, to intend a doll for the Spanish Queen
In XVIIIth, these parisian dolls embassies, going as fashion plenipotentiary to impose their code on the world, are get ready with more solenity ! Their mission is stutied in congress, without casualness, every detail is verified, weighed, allowed and they start only with the unanimous approbation of this coquetry 's synode.
So, only one doll is insuffisant, an other doll, heighless, more simple will make code for the lingerie, as the first for the big dress.This one is called " Grande Pandore ", and, the other one doll " Petite Pandore ".
They are the " Precieuses" of miss de Scudery's society which take care of their adaptation. Usually it is in the salon of the great Precieuse on Saturday, day of the small assemblies, that one proceeds to the sacramental dress.
So, in the XIVth century, the dolls mentioned in inventories were not intended for the amusement of the children; it is very evident that the dolls which were sent in 1391 to the Queen of England were rather intended to show to her Court which were the new fashions that the Queen Isabeau of Bavaria had introduced in the Court of France by marrying Charles VIth. "
( H.d'Allemagne, Histoire des Jouets, p.102 ).
|" It is assured, let us be read in the " Souvenir d'un homme du monde " ( Souvenirs of a gentleman), that during the most bloody war, (the war of seven years) between France and England, by a gallantry which is not unworthy to hold place in the story, the Ministers of the two Courts of Versailles and St-James granted, in favour of the Ladies, an inviolable passport to the great Doll, which had a alabaster face, three or four feets of height, dressed and put on, according to the most recent fashions, to be use as model by the ladies of the country. So, in the middle of the furious hostilities which were on both sides, this doll was the only thing which was respected with weapons. "
" I would not have so for a long time spoken about these travelers dolls , if the part which they played with an almost official importance, had been doubtless resumed in a more humble way, but more decisive also, by these myriads of fine dolls migrations of which begin with every new year and which go away due in the world to continue and to widen the popularity of our fashions. They are true Parisians who arrive, as we know; and quickly, these dolls begin to be imitated. Nothing is more exact that all their dresses.
It is a common doll, quite friendly and neat and tidy, the poor girl of the hands of whom she goes out made and dressed her in her ressemblance; if it is a lady-doll , she adorned her as her would like to be it ."
|" The parisian workers, say Mr. Natalis Rondot, in the report on the exhibition of 1849, have no rivals for the doll clothing : they know how to, with a prestesse and a magnificent skill, take advantage of the least fragments of material to create an elegant dress. The short cape, the casarecka and the dress of a penny doll are the faithful and correct reproduction of new fashions.|
|In these suits made with so much coquetry, it is not only the excel linen maid by the dresser, needlewoman or milliner but also, at the same time, evidence of taste in the choice of tissues and the contrast of colours. So the doll is sent in departments and often abroad, as a " top model " of modes; she even became an indispensable accessory of all export countries novelties, and it happened that, by lack of doll, the traders compromised the investment of their sendings. The first short capes sold in India were at first weared on the head, as mantilla, by the ladies of Calcutta; the doll model arrived finally and error was recognized ........! "
This long text will not learn anything with some of you but will make it possible good number to discover the story of this Pandora or rather of these Pandora on whom little wrote and even less offered illustrations with regard to them.
Henry d'Allemagne said of them that mostly " They were flat and presented that a single decorated face; all the visible parts of the body, the feet, the head and the hands, were cardboard painted "
Mr. François Theimer by allowing us to make some photos of the Royal Dolls, so allowed us to see and to immotalize a haughtiness pandore. See this on the left.
Also, he allowed us to take a shot of so famous pandore, known under the name of the " Doll of the street Saint-Honoré " . " It was a model of needlewoman elaborated as a model of painter but in lighter whom used Miss Rose Bertin to show the last Parisian fashion to her customers of European Courts. This model of 1, m 60 is moreover represented on a carving of XVIII-th century, the famous trader of fashions getting ready it in front of a clientele of beautiful and curious ladies. ". (Thank you Mister Theimer See below)
" The journeys of these dolls went on throughout XVIIIth century ". In 1849, the doll is always used l to give abroad an idea of French fashions. The idea to use these small models as sample, was resumed nowadays (- at the end of XIX-th century) - by the biggest number of manufacturers who take charge of the feminine garment. These models in reduction present the advantage to hold less place in the shop windows of exhibition and also that of a big economy in the start-up costs .( Henry d'Allemagne," Histoire des Jouets " page 112
" In the XVIII-th century, all Europe is for the Frenchwoman! " (Les Goncourt)
Some lines farther one can read, and it the quite special attention of our American friends and travelers: " One copied our dresses and our hairstyles up to Philadelphia. One of these " dolls of the fashion " that one sent to over there in the time of the good king Louis XVI, is still kept in the Museum of this city, which was from the very beginning, with its library and its Pensylvanie's university based in 1745, one of the centres of America - "
Hypothesis confirmed in these terms by Madam Barbe who wrote about the exhibition of 1900: " So as we were made formerly, there is hundred fifty and maybe two hundred years old. Every month left of the street Saint-Honore two dolls, the little Pandore and big Pandore, this one in brilliant dress, that one in simple negligee, dressed and put on in the day taste. They went to England, in Spain, to Italy, to Turkey. As we were been in war, the enemy lines opened in front of them. All the ladies of Europe were so dressed in the French. One says that one of these Pandore, surprised in the journeys, would still be in the museum of Philadelphia ".
There is even an entitled lithography " Fashionables! " ....... (above and p. 118). I regrettably have it no date, it is extracted from this magnificent Bible that is " L'Histoire des Jouets " (the Story of toys" by Henry d'Allemagne).
The extremely rare five illustrations above are the only ones whom I was able to find, but give a beautiful idea of what was the famous Pandore.
Le mannequin de Rose Bertin
|P.S. - Following a first sending, Mr Samy ODIN, Director of the Musée de la Poupée-Paris, writes to us :
"Thank you for this attractive page on Pandore. It is true that it is given that to us few opportunities to see what looked like these ambassadresses of the Parisian fashions. I allow myself, nevertheless, to indicate you what, to my opinion, is a bad interpretation of Henry d'Allemagne.By evoking the fact that these dolls were made cardboard and decorated on a single side, hedid not describe Pandore about which you speak in your article (which are in volume), but the dolls of cut paper,genre Psyche, which also served for diffusing the last novelties of the Parisian dressmakers of the beginning of XIX ° century. Among these dolls of paper, some was named by the first name of Pandore, exactly with regard to their most cumbersome ancestors of the XVII and XVIII centuries.
One thousand thank you to treat us of so interesting communications...."
we thank well warmly him for these precision and recrification